Bs 3766:1979 Specification For Coolant Pumps For Mac

1. Res., 84, 3761-3766, 1979 Monahan, E. O'Muircheartaigh, Optimal. M w T- I I I I I I I 1 I I I ' I M ' I 3.0 6.0 9.0 U„ (m/s) -r- 12.0 Figure 2: Transfer velocity Kl vs. It worked without specification of the macroroughness concentration (i. Instruments Lab VIEW software running on a Macintosh Ilfx computer.
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• Bs 3766:1979 Specification For Coolant Pumps For Machines
• Bs 3766:1979 Specification For Coolant Pumps For Macbook Pro

I have been thinking about this kit for a while, with my engine out now would be the time. A couple of thoughts. Why is the thermostat temp on the bypass lower than the OEM thermostat? The stock 190 cracks at 190 and is full open at 207, with a max allowed of 225. It seems to me that a 200 thermostat in the bypass would be better for fuel economy, fan operation, and still do it's job.

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So is there a 200 that will fit? If I currently peak my temps at 215 pulling a grade, between full open and max allowed, am I at risk of pushing a freeze plug out? This is between 1900-2500 rpms. What do the 385hp 6.7 in the Ram and high hp QSB's do differently for flow thru the head? The QSB480 is rated for 480hp at 3400 rpms, while they do run a 165 thermostat that cannot be the only thing keeping the freeze plugs in.

'I had a hard time finding the info on what psi to sel my relief valve at for my DIY coolant bypass. So i bought the necessary fittings and gauge to see what exactly the pressure is at that 1/2' npt #6 coolant port where most bypass kits relieve pressure from.

I took a few videos of the gauge readings, coolant temp, ambient temp, and rpm of the engine.Hope somebody finds this info useful! -I saw no difference in pressure when i varied the engine load by going uphill but keeping the rpms constant.

However im sure if you were racing it and creating substantially more heat the pressure would no doubt increase, but that information is irrelevant when it comes to choosing relief pressure for the valve.I noticed a slightly higher pressure at idle once the coolant was at operating temp above 190'. Which is understandable, but again not necessary info needed to select a valve relief preesure.UPDATE-Im not telling anyone what to set their pressures at, you can make your own conclusions from the video if you like. I chose to go with an Aquatrol Series 55 valve with chrome plating, set at roughly 35 psi cracking pressure.SUMMARY OF RESULTS.3k rpm 50psi -3500rpm 65-68psi -4k rpm 80+ psi -engine load was pretty irrelevant, all recordings were at operating temp of 190' coolant' Here is the problem I see with using a pressure relief approach opposed to a temperature activated relief: The videos clearly show that it takes at least 3000 rpm to get to 50 psi at the back of the block. So what if there is a problem with the cooling circuit and that the coolant is either not circulating properly or there is a leak that depletes coolant and induces aeration? Pressure relief under 3000 rpm may well not catch a condition like this if the back cylinder is affected first and steam is created by coolant boiling and blowing out back freeze plug before a pressure spike may be registered by a regulator.

As well as the fact that a pressure regulator is a mechanical device that depends on cleanliness to function correctly so if there is any corrosion or port blockage in the regulator, it may not function very well when it is needed. Whereas a thermostat is proven in trillions of cumulative hours of operation in every closed coolant systems with a radiator. Also say a pressure regulator is set at a minimum setting of 50 psi increasing: It may not ever relieve (open) before the freeze plug has blown out in the back of the block if the problem is not engine rpm related! Also if it is possible to set the pressure set point low enough to solve this issue, then the valve will be constantly relieving and disrupt proper coolant temperature profiles across the entire engine block and head. This is where a thermostat approach is superior IMHO. The reason for a slightly lower thermostat setting (180. vs 190.

for the main thermostat) is to ensure timeliness of response and relief for temperature-induced pressure deviations, AND to keep said pressure spikes from even occurring in the first place because the system is already relieving as per thermostat bypass rates which does not allow for pressure spikes to start with! That delta-T is necessary to enable staying ahead of pressure increase because temperature is a lagging variable NORMALLY. The Fleece kit looks like a real challenge to get installed over an automatic tranny while in the truck but after thinking about this a lot, I decided I need to just figure out how to get it done and quit whining about it. Because IMHO it is the correct way to approach the problem. Obviously if the engine is out then it is no problem whatsoever and should be done then. I wish I had known about this when I had the transmission out at Garmon's shop because that would have been easy to do it then. I already have the heat exchanger bypassed far as ATF running thru it and the turbo coolant is routed in downstream of the heater core in-cab so already dealt with the arguments about an automatic tranny truck making this solution not viable.

However after all this long-winded BS it is still better to do something to alleviate the problem than nothing at all especially if the truck is hot-rodded at all. However a pressure based relief method is going to have to be set at. I think it is an issue of extreme heat (very high egt) being transfered to the coolant causing rapid expansion and high rpm from the water pump raising pressure to a point where they will pop.

And the QSB480 has an unlimited cooling system with sea water, so with lots of cool water flow through the engine there is never the same hot spots that develop that we get in a truck application. JMO.Raw sea water is not run thru a block.

It is circulated thru a heat exchanger and coolant is circulated thru the block. I worked on oil field boats many years ago with big Detroit 12 cylinder two-stroke diesels twin-turbocharged (not compounded though) that used sea water as cooling medium run thru giant heat exchangers mounted on the front of each engine. It was really something to go in the engine room and see, hear, and feel five huge diesels just absolutely screaming while jamming in 4 to 8 foot seas. Will never forget that. I think it is an issue of extreme heat (very high egt) being transfered to the coolant causing rapid expansion and high rpm from the water pump raising pressure to a point where they will pop.

And the QSB480 has an unlimited cooling system with sea water, so with lots of cool water flow through the engine there is never the same hot spots that develop that we get in a truck application. JMO.They still have a thermostat that maintains a temp within the parameters set for the thermostat. There shouldn't be any more hot spots within the thermostat specs in a marine motor or a truck motor, the block is temperature regulated. The QSB480 runs 1301ｰ in the manifold, to me that's hot.

But maybe not to others? So if I am under the max allowed operating temp (per Cummins, NOT Dodge) is it an issue? Just by looking at the Fleece coolant bypass kit, I'm not a big fan of the design. I had the Wicked Diesel's coolant bypass kit for a while. It was a pricey really nice kit and easy to install but the pressure bypass valve in it is set really low.

I would guess 30-35psi. I have a post thermostat Autometer water temp gauge and could tell that the bypass was bypassing nearly all the time. This was making my warmup times much longer in cool weather. I sold that one and bought the Cummins Forum one.

SS braided hose and simple pressure valve. This pressure valve is set higher, approx 50-55PSI. A really simple and easy to install design and cleared my top turbo nicely. Not my engine and my SS braided hose is much shorter and straight. I've had a plate over that rear frost plug for many years. I would recommend that everyone install a plate over the frost plug and just leave it at that.

If that frost plug comes out or leaks, you are going to have a very bad day. I bought this really nice plate off a guy on DTR that was making them.

It has a really nice aluminum spacer that fit the frost plug perfectly behind the 3/8' steel plate. No need to remove the original frost plug. Awkward to install the plate but not hard. IMO, unless you are running 700+HP, I don't think these coolant bypass kits are worth it.

Well maybe they are just 'not needed under 700 hp' but still not bad insurance and remember that there have been trucks purely stock where it still blew out the freeze plug. Just blocking egress of the big freeze plug still doesn't do anything about the freeze plugs on the head or other locations either. Until those are extracted and threaded plugs installed those can also blow out with catastrophic consequences. Besides the plug blow-out is the effect; the cause is insufficient cooling around the #5 and #6 cylinders so that is really the objective in providing a direct path for coolant to traverse quickly away from the high temp region. Stock cummins IIRC are coolant rated for something like 350 hp so it wouldn't take much in the way of mods to get well past that heat load so there ya go. For my truck I am going to find a way to put the Fleece kit on.

It will not hurt anything and may prevent a nasty surprise. To each his own.

I don't have anything to add but there is a lot of good info in here! May have to do this over the winter while I swap my turbo out. So is fleece the only company that offers a temperature based bypass? And golfsnow did you end up deleting your trans heat exchanger?

I live in the northeast and am a little hesitant to do so, although I really don't want ATF and coolant mixing. Any other northern guys running without the heat exchanger and if so have you noticed any difference in warm up of the trans? Raw sea water is not run thru a block. It is circulated thru a heat exchanger and coolant is circulated thru the block. I worked on oil field boats many years ago with big Detroit 12 cylinder two-stroke diesels twin-turbocharged (not compounded though) that used sea water as cooling medium run thru giant heat exchangers mounted on the front of each engine. It was really something to go in the engine room and see, hear, and feel five huge diesels just absolutely screaming while jamming in 4 to 8 foot seas.

Will never forget that.commtrd, I know exactly how they work, and I did not say that they run sea water through the engine. I was just saying that marine engines have an unlimited supply of cool water for the heat exchangers to work off of, and water to water is much more efficient at heat transfer than air to water. So there is the HP difference in the ability of the engine temp to be regulated better. You are right, nothing like an engine room with a few screaming detroit 2 stroke diesels shaking the sh!t out of the boat. They still have a thermostat that maintains a temp within the parameters set for the thermostat.

There shouldn't be any more hot spots within the thermostat specs in a marine motor or a truck motor, the block is temperature regulated. The QSB480 runs 1301ｰ in the manifold, to me that's hot. But maybe not to others? So if I am under the max allowed operating temp (per Cummins, NOT Dodge) is it an issue?Obviously they still have a thermostat, but that does not mean that they will not have hot spots in the cooling system.the more heat load on any cooling system the bigger and more aggressive the hot spots become.

What I am refering to is on a stock application that is made to run at 'X' HP and then modified to make 'Y' HP there will be far more heat load on the cooling system, agreed? So a QSB480 makes much more HP, just that it has a MUCH more efficient cooling system to support it. Remember, pressure is eaqual in all areas of the cooling system.untill heat expansion of the coolant causes high pressure areas.

This is what blows frost plugs. Either way, when modified to where you are making more power with the same cooling system there will be more pressure/temperature made in the cooling system to go along with it.

The more I read about this, the grayer my hair get I think I'm at a point where I decided for myself to use an OAT based product (Peak) because it is hard or close to impossible to find the Piaggio-recommended Agip or Fina product with CUNA NC 956-16 specs in the USA. To see how new Vespas are delivered from the dealer, I'd like to know what color is in your expansion tank (behind the right knee pad). You can see it when you remove the black top cap (CAUTION: don't remove it when the coolant is hot, or at least be very careful and do it s l o w l y!) With enough ambient light, you will be able to see the color. Please only look for it if your scooter is below two years old and never needed any work on the cooling system. Who knows whether the scooters are even shipped with coolant in them, or whether the dealer has to add it at PDI? 2007 GTS -the original was green/yellow and I replaced it with OAT-based red/pink Havoline Dexcool.

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The color means nothing. Dexcool will work well in a closed system that has a pressure cap on the overflow tank at the top of the system. Dexcool can become a disaster in a system where the pressure cap is at the top of the metal radiator tank and air is allowed to get sucked into the radiator, touching the inside of the metal tank. This is true for motoscooters and cars. Mix 50/50 with distilled water only. Cheers and good luck, Bob. 2007 GTS -the original was green/yellow and I replaced it with OAT-based red/pink Havoline Dexcool.

The color means nothing. Dexcool will work well in a closed system that has a pressure cap on the overflow tank at the top of the system. Dexcool can become a disaster in a system where the pressure cap is at the top of the metal radiator tank and air is allowed to get sucked into the radiator, touching the inside of the metal tank. This is true for motoscooters and cars.

Mix 50/50 with distilled water only. Cheers and good luck, Bob MNScooter posted a very good piece about antifreeze sometime back. He's pretty knowledgeable, and said he has it on good authority that Texaco/Havoline Dexcool is the identical same stuff Piaggio uses. Here's the thread: Last edited by on Mon Sep 14, 2009 5:07 pm; edited 1 time in total. Thanks all, it helps deconfuse me and follow my plan (to keep the Peak stuff in it that I just flushed with). Harvey, you're right, 20-some bucks is nothing in the big picture, but why, when I can get. ASTM D-3306 (USA) for around a tenner.

Cincinnati John, yes, I am very familiar with that thread. That's what made me double-guess my last flush job, wondering whether I put in the right stuff.

It is amazing how competitive and cutthroat this market is, where some brands tell you that all the others basically eat out your cooling system from the inside and only their stuff will keep it alive, while others tell you you can mix theirs with everything, and only THEY protect your engine 175mws, I also saw that thread, and they brought up color, so this is why I started this thread. Only thing that is still open is, whether Vespas come with a dry or a filled cooling system when they are shipped overseas (USA). Anyone who knows? DEX-COOL ADI Marketing - Metro NY Advance Auto Parts - East of the Rockies Ames Dept.

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Bs 3766:1979 Specification For Coolant Pumps For Machines

Vespa/Piaggio, like any automaker, will tell you to buy ONLY their products to put in your scooter, or it may not run right. That ensures an income for them if you buy only their product line. If you check out the service manual specs, you will find that just about any well known coolant is acceptable as long as you follow the guidelines.

Bs 3766:1979 Specification For Coolant Pumps For Macbook Pro

The one I use is in the BRIGHT YELLOW jug. Reading the fine print on it, clearly states that it is a 50/50 mix of all the 'stuff' that Vespa recommends. Sorry, I cannot agree with this. Piaggio does not have nor do they mandate a specific brand. They recommend a spec guideline (CUNA NC956-16).

The service manual does not give any specs above that. Nowhere do they state that it should be/must be free of silicates and phosphates, so your 'stuff' specs are hollow at best. I eat my words. Dye colors do indeed indicate inhibitor type: have a look at this. With every new piece of information, this topic gets more confusing and contradictive. Your chart is proven incorrect in one part, and therefore other parts may be incorrect as well. They list Valvoline Zerex 5/150 as OAT and not-HOAT.

On the container, the product claims to be HOAT and not-OAT. I didn't compare more details, I'm getting dizzzzzzzzzzzy!

To be honest, I'm back to a point where I don't know which way to go. I eat my words. Dye colors do indeed indicate inhibitor type: have a look at this. With every new piece of information, this topic gets more confusing and contradictive. Your chart is proven incorrect in one part, and therefore other parts may be incorrect as well.

They list Valvoline Zerex 5/150 as OAT and not-HOAT. On the container, the product claims to be HOAT and not-OAT. I didn't compare more details, I'm getting dizzzzzzzzzzzy! To be honest, I'm back to a point where I don't know which way to go Now that you're dazed and confused; want to organize a group buy of Agip Permanent Spezial? I'm in for 2L Harvey.